Neighborhoods



Though the city of San Francisco is a compact 49 sq mi, its neighborhoods guard their individuality like medieval fiefdoms. Each district is a distinct entity culturally, socially, and often politically, and they are all fascinating grounds for urban exploration. The best way to experience the city’s neighborhoods is on foot: Plan your walk with a map or just start off in an interesting spot and surrender to the whims of the streets.

DOWNTOWN

Downtown is grand old San Francisco – that of tea dances and cocktail hours. Looking up at the beautiful architectural details, you might forget what century it is. Noteworthy architectural stops include the 1930 Art Deco Shell Building (100 Bush St., between Battery and Sansome Sts.) and the 1926 Romanesque chateau-style Hunter-Dulin Building (111 Sutter St., between Montgomery and Kearny Sts.). Today the downtown area has the major concentration of monkey-making businesses. It’s typical cosmopolitan walking territory, with all the elements – both fascinating and horrifying – of urban American life.

UNION SQUARE – Union Square is the physical heart – though not the soul – of the city, especially for tourists who come to shop, browse the galleries, attend the theater, and then sleep in the finer hotels. The square, bordered by Powell, Post, Stockton, and Geary streets, was named in honor of pro-Union rallies held prior to the Civil War. Some San Franciscans will tell you the name more appropriately refers to the huge demonstrations held here in the 1930s by labor organizations, which at one point effectively shut down the city for a week.

Today Union Square consists of a park (where a few palm trees remind you that you’re still in California) encircled by a ring – make that solid-gold band – of the city’s ritziest stores and boutiques, including Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Chanel, Tiffany, Cartier, Hermes, Giorgio Armani, Gumps, Ralph Lauren, Macy’s, Bulgari, Brooks Brothers, Coach, Williams-Sonoma, Versace, and NikeTown. Combined, Union Square merchants ring up an estimated $1 billion in sales annually. Even so, the park tends toward seediness at night; linger elsewhere.

 

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More Shopping Venues



Three shopping complexes girdle the wharf: Pier 39, the Cannery, and Ghirardelli Square. Owned by the billionaire Bass brothers of Texas, Pier 39 is a bland imitation of a turn-of-the-century New England seaport village. A former Del Monte peach-canning factory, the Cannery is now a gallery of chic boutiques. Chocolate is no longer made on-site at Ghirardelli Square, but you can buy it here in bars or atop a huge, tasty ice cream sundae ($6). To reach Fisherman’s Wharf, take Bus 32 from the Ferry Building downtown. Or fulfill your other tourist obligation by taking a cable car from Powell Street to the end of the line.

If you lack the stamina or credit rating to shop Fisherman’s Wharf, for $6 you can set a course for the USS Pampanito submarine, or visit the Maritime Museum, housed in an Art Deco building that displays all sorts of artifacts from the maritime history of San Francisco. Admission to the museum is free, but for $4 you might have fun walking around on one of the old ships at the Hyde Street Pier, between the Cannery and Ghirardelli Square. Docked there are the Balclutha, a 100-year-old square-rigged ship; the Eureka, a restored turn-of-the century paddle-wheel ferry; and the C.A. Thayer, an equally venerable schooner. Comedian Jonathan Winters was once briefly institutionalized after he climbed the mast of the Balclutha and hung from it, shouting, “I am the man in the moon!”

At the other end of the wharf, Underwater World is a 707,000-gallon “diver’s-eye view” aquarium, where visitors listen to a taped 30-minute tour as they glide through a 300-ft transparent tunnel. Though the two main tanks are full of sharks, rays, anemones, and 10,000 types of fish, many visitors seem more amused by the scuba divers who scrub the tanks each morning. It’s entertaining in a surreal sort of way, but the $12.95 admission price is mighty steep for an attraction that you can breeze through in under an hour.

 

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Financial District



San Francisco is the financial capital of the West Coast. The center of the city’s Financial District is Montgomery Street, the “Wall Street of the West,” where the towers of wealth blot out the sun at street level. This part of town is built on landfill comprising the remains of hundreds of abandoned ships and docks; on the corner of Sacramento and Clay streets you’ll find a plaque dedicated to the Niantic – a trading ship buried at this site. Nowadays it’s a monument to the type A personality, where traffic lights stop vehicles in all four directions to allow harried office workers to cross diagonally and to let kamikaze bicycle messengers whiz by.

Begin your exploration at the glowering Bank of America World Headquarters, at the corner of California and Kearny streets. Its north plaza is graced with a black-granite shard of public art officially called Transcendence, but popularly known as “The Banker’s Heart.” In the elegant Carnelian Room, on the building’s 52nd floor, you can nurse a $6 cocktail and gaze in wonder at the city below. Bank of America’s arch rival, Wells Fargo Bank, lures you in with the free Wells Fargo History Museum, detailing the history of California’s oldest bank and celebrating the short-lived but picturesque Pony Express. The museum is open weekdays 9-5 (except for bank holidays.)

TRANSAMERICA PYRAMID – The Pyramid (600 Montgomery St., between Clay and Washington Sts.) is the distinguishing feature of the San Francisco skyline. Despite Transamerica Corp.’s recent purchase by Aegon NV, a Dutch company, the pyramid retains its Transamerica name – a wise public relations choice by the new owners.

BARBARY COAST – In the 1850s San Francisco was home to the Barbary Coast, one of the most infamous red-light districts ever to exist.

 

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Welcome All Ye Sinners



Ever been to church and come away humming and tapping your toes? Enjoy religion (with none of the guilt but possibly alongside Sharon Stone) at Glide Memorial United Methodist Church. Instead of organ music, a funky band and choir give parishioners reason to stand up and groove.

Heading south on Powell Street from Union Square, you’ll come to the intersection of Market and Powell streets. Everyone passes through here: proselytizers, street musicians, artists, punks, young professionals, vendors, protesters, dogs, pigeons, and tourists in matching jogging suits. All converge around the cable car turnaround, the Powell Street BART station, and the San Francisco Visitor Information Center, tucked below street level on Hallidie Plaza. Across Market Street from the cable car turnaround is the ritzy San Francisco Shopping Centre, which is built around a dizzying four-story atrium.

MAIDEN LANE – This short alley off the east side of Union Square was home to the “cribs” (brothels) that formed the center of a notoriously rowdy red-light district. Now it’s a shopping arcade for the thick-walleted and the site of San Francisco’s only Frank Lloyd Wright-designed building, 140 Maiden Lane, which served as the prototype for the Guggenheim Museum in New York.

 

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Downtown



Cafe de la Presse. This cafe, near the German and French cultural centers, has a French-speaking staff and stacks of Le Monde (among other European newspapers) at the counter. You can enjoy your espresso outdoors under sidewalk umbrellas, but the Parisian fantasy ends there: One look at the snarl of traffic from Bush Street to the Chinatown Gate will remind you this is a West Coast metropolis. 352 Grant Ave., at Bush St., tel. 415/398-2680.

Yakety Yak. The bright facade of this mellow coffeehouse makes a rebellious contrast to its gray surroundings. Portfolio-toting artists from the nearby Academy of Arts come here for a caffeine fix, a huge selection of fresh pastries, and a fast Internet connection. Open-mike poetry readings are held on Friday night 7-9. 679 Sutter St., at Taylor St., tel. 415/885-6908.

 

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Civic Center/Hayes Valley



Mad Magda’s Russian Tea Room and Cafe. Magda’s has an otherworldly feel, a bit like the Mad Hatter’s tea party  in Alice in Wonderland: There are deep blue ceilings, red walls, and a “magic” garden in back. For $13 you can get an expert palm, aura, or Tarot card reading (Mon. and Tues. 1 pm- 9 pm, Wed-Sat. 1 pm – midnight, and Sun. until 7 pm). Preferred reading material: tea leaves . 579 Hayes St., between Octavia and Laguna Sts., tel. 415/864-7654.

Momi Toby’s Revolution Cafe. A Sunday-morning hangout for Hayes Valley locals, Momi Toby’s encourages artistic expression by providing sketchbooks, crayons, and a working piano. Prefer to read quietly? You’ll find quality literature shelved next to the counter. Beer, wine, and appealing snacks like tuna melts and Brie baguettes are on the menu. There’s live music on some weekends. 528 Laguna St., between Hayes and Fell Sts., tel. 415/626-1508.

 

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Would You Like Coffee With That?



Beyond the basic drinks like espresso, cappuccino, latte, and mocha, some cafe menus list a half dozen or more caffeine concoctions. Figuring out how to order can be tough: Gone are the days of small, medium, and large. Instead, you must decide between a single or double (bonus points for ordering a doppio) in sizes short, tall, or grande and with wet or dry foam. Occasionally, cafes adopt an absurdist mix-and-match attitude. If you are asked, “Would you like the doppio in a grande cup with dry foam?” you have our permission to move to a different venue.

Cup-a-Joe. This funky place with maroon walls has all the ingredients of a successful cafe: a mean cup o’ joe, tasty pastries, and an art-student clientele. They occasionally hold spoken-word performances; call for details. 3801 17th St., tel. 415/487-1661.

Jumpin’ Java. Escape the see-and-be-seen chaos of Castro cafes in the quiet, tree-lined neighborhood of Duboce Triangle just outside the thick of things in the Castro. Although the bay Guardian has deemed this “the best place to cruise nerdy gay guys has deemed this “the best place to cruise nerdy gay guys,” you’ll also find a mix of students and gay and straight couples. 139 Noe St., between Henry and 14th Sts., tel. 415/431-5282.

Morning Due. On the border between the Castro and Mission districts is a refreshingly airy, well-lighted cafe with a good selection of light meals and snacks. The studious crowds and mellow world-beat music make it a good place to enjoy a novel; they’ll even sell you a book from their shelves. Aspiring poets and folk musicians show up for an occasional open-mike Saturday night. 3698 17th St., at Church St., tel. 415/621-7156.

Pasqua Coffee. The friendly crowd at the Castro branch of this normally impersonal local chain sets it apart from all the rest. Toned, tanned locals come for the excellent scones and coffee and stay for the stylish social scene. 4094 18th St., at Castro St., 415/626-6263.

 

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San Francisco – Castro/Noe Valley



The Castro District teems with lively restaurants, many with outdoor patios. Brunch is an institution here: Mimosas and espressos flow freely on weekend mornings, and the crowd is always jovial and loud. Follow the sunglasses-wearing masses to the hottest brunch spots, Cafe Flore and the Patio Cafe, and brace yourself for a long afternoon of Bloody Marys. The after-hours eating scene around Castro Street is just as vibrant – you don’t have to look too far for a casual dinner spot, even late into the night. But if you really want to impress someone, the supertrendy 2223 Market is considered the best restaurant in the neighborhood. The cuisine is all Californian, and entrees cost under $20 each.

 

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Food



Waves of Asian and Central American immigrants have made San Francisco a flavorful and festive hotbed of cheap taquerias, backstreet Chinese holes-in-the-wall, gracious Thai and Vietnamese establishments, reasonably priced sushi houses, and Korean barbecue joints. Oakland is known for Southern-style eats and its less touristy version of Chinatown; and Berkeley has its Gourmet Ghetto, with everything a foodie could want. Marin County and the South Bay, though generally more expensive, both have their share of worthwhile restaurants, with Marin County’s known for their waterfront views.

For serious mavens, a trip to Alice Waters’ legendary Chez Panisse is a must: It’s the birthplace of the seasonal, Mediterranean-inspired style known as California cuisine. You can sample great versions of this now common fare at hundreds of excellent sit-down restaurants throughout the Bay Area where entrees cost less than $10-$15. In addition, we’ve included a handful of the city’s most cutting-edge restaurants, where entrees cost up to $20 – but at any of these places you can get away with ordering appetizers for dinner or splitting a main course. Our price categories refer to the cost of the majority of main courses at the establishment being reviewed. Unless otherwise noted, the restaurants in this chapter accept one or more major credit cards.

 

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Berkeley Marina



Warm days were meant to be spent at the Berkeley Marina, at the end of University Avenue approximately half a mile west of 1-80. Head for the 3/4-mi pier jutting out into the bay to enjoy the unbeatable views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz Island. Winds along the bay can be quite chilly, which makes nearby Cesar E. Chavez Park (formerly North Waterfront Park) a perfect retreat. The hilly 92-acrepark is Berkeley’s only open space without a leash law for dogs and is also one of the most popular kite flying areas in the Bay Area.

The Shorebird Nature Center (160 University Ave.,) offers visitors a glimpse of bay marine life in its 100-gallon saltwater aquarium and runs all sorts of educational and environmental programs. For information on renting boats or hooking up with one of the sailing clubs stationed at the marina, stop by the Marina Office (201 University Ave.) To get to the marina, drive west on University Avenue across 1-80 or take Bus 51M from the Berkeley BART station.

 

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